Colombia: Not Columbia — Travel Ninja

I’m in the airport at 5:00 a.m. waiting to board my flight when I run into a couple that I used to work with. They looked wide awake but officially in vacay mode. In between my endless yawns, I asked where they were headed and simultaneously, they answered The Bahamas. Me being the island feen that I am, my eyes immediately lit up in excitement for them. Truth be told, I’m borderline jealous of anyone that tells me they are headed to the Caribbean! So, in as much enthusiasm that I can conjure up at 5:00 a.m., I wished them well and proclaimed that they would have a wonderful time. As I turn to head toward my gate they asked where I was off to and my response was that I was on my way to Colombia. Oh, South Carolina? The husband asked and I said No, South America. Next was pure silence followed by an awkward Oh. Ok. Um. Wow. Ok. They seemed to be really caught off guard. Actually, there have been quite a few people to give me blank stares when I mention my travel plans to Colombia. These blank stares are usually followed by questions in regards to safety. You’re not scared? Nope, not scared. Is it really safe to travel there? Yup, just as safe as the last trip you took to New Orleans. Immediately following that exchange is when a few scattered words such as Escobar. Kidnappings. Drugs. Cartel. Narcos. begin to float in the air. I don’t know about you, but white sand beaches, pink seas, mud volcanos, Colombian cuisine, Afro-Colombian art and having the opportunity to visit the very first village freed from slavery in the Americas all sound like great reasons to travel to Colombia. Welp, it’s a good thing I don’t let other people’s ignorance or fear dictate what ends up on my travel agenda. If I did that, I’d miss out on all the good stuff!

Medellín

Yes, Medellín is where Pablo Escobar’s drug cartel was originated but a lot has changed in the last 40 years people (imagine an eye rolling emoji inserted right here). It’s an innovative and vibrant city located in a valley of the Andes Mountains. The skyline is beautiful and the mountain views are stunning. My only regret about Medellín is that my timing was a little off. It was the very beginning of the rainy season and when I say it rained - it poured! Yes, I can stand a little rain, but the down pour basically eliminated most of my desired outdoor activities (e.g. walking tours, hiking, day trip to Guatapé) The other thing is that Medellín pretty much shuts down on Sundays which happened to be one of three days I was scheduled to spend there. Hey, you live and learn that’s all part of the travel journey. The silver lining here is if I ever find myself back there, I already have a head start on my agenda.

Cartagena

The majority of my time was spent in Cartagena and I enjoyed every moment. I stayed in Bocagrande (ocean front) and also within the Walled City (old Cartagena). The weather on the coast is straight bliss and the architecture within the Walled City is a photographer’s dream. Believe me when I tell you there is no lack of color in this city. Colors are so bold they are clearly seen from your peripheral. Colombian food is deliciously flavorful and even the street vendors are hard to stay away from (not that I tried). Leaning all the way in, a walking food tour was high on the agenda and I gotta tell ya, it did not disappoint. I enjoyed some familiar bites and well as gained a liking for some others: Arepas con huevo, buñuelos, empanadas, patacones, mango biche, jugo de Sandía, limonada de coco and many more gastronomic delights.

Afro-Colombians were especially welcoming to me. The smiles of the people depict a level of vibrancy that I don’t encounter often. Eye contact and a smile were what set in motion a silent exchange acknowledging that we were in fact some way distant cousins. “Mi Gente, Mi Familia” are the words that ultimately follow while making connections throughout the streets. Watching Palenqueras maneuver through town with chocolate toned skin and bright smiles gave me a sense of pride to be among these beautiful black women.

Palenque

One of the most profound parts of this journey was traveling to San Basilio de Palenque. Palenque, which is about an hour outside of Cartagena is the first free town to be liberated from slavery in the Americas. What I learned is that this village was founded by Benkos Biohó, an African King who was captured and sold into slavery. He escaped the slavery port in Cartagena and formed an army with others who also managed to escape. What comes to mind when I think about this place is strong community, genuine hospitality, and unstoppable resilience. I got a chance to see students of Palenque’s Batata Dance and Music School perform traditional African dances that were both exhilarating and powerful. There is no doubt that the struggle is beyond real here, but there still seems to be unity, warmth and a strong sense of freedom that lingers in the air. Visiting the village of Palenque is an absolute must for anyone who finds themselves booking a flight to Cartagena.

Main square statue of African King Benkos Biohó

Students of Palenque’s Batata Dance and Music School

Travel Ninja’s Local Tips:

Languages: Contrary to what you believe most people do NOT speak English. Please do yourself a favor and brush up on some ¡Español! Even basic phrases will go a long way. Downloading a translation app that can be used offline is a great idea.

Tour Guides: The Real Cartagena Tour (Alex Rocha); FreddyPazTours (Freddy Paz). Alex and Freddy both come highly recommended and I had great experiences with both of their local businesses.

Accommodations: Airbnb all the way!

Transportation: Although Uber is technically “illegal” it is still the way to go. As in the states it’s a lot cheaper than an official taxi (Sometimes a taxi is 2x the cost). If you’re not comfortable with the illegal Uber status just make sure to confirm the price of the Taxi ride before you drive off! ¿Cuanto?

Money Exchange: You’ll get the best exchange rate when using an ATM so look for Cajero Automático. Keep in mind that even though you may select an English menu when you are asked how much you’d like to withdraw you have to enter the number of Colombian Pesos instead US Dollars. For example, if you want to withdraw $200 USD do not enter 200. You have to manually convert USD to COP (e.g. 662,000 COP). Downloading an exchange rate app that can be used offline is also a great idea.

Have you been to Colombia (not Columbia)? I’d love to hear about your local experience. Please feel free to share your comments below and follow me on Instagram @travelninja.llc